Everyone has disco fever. In the post COVID boom the money is flowing, the parties last all night, and bling is back in a big way. Nowhere is this more true than in the watch world.
Two of the most coveted watches on the market right now are the AP Royal Oak and the Patek Phillipe Nautilus. This pair created the luxury sport watch segment in the glittering 70s. Both were created by Gerald Genta, the most iconic watch designer of the 20th century.
At the time this was revolutionary because elite brands only put their movements in dress watches. The desire for steel came from Italy where this more casual trend originated. Critics speculated that Genta’s radical designers would bankrupt AP and Patek. In fact, his designs kept these brands afloat during the quartz crisis of the 80s.
The entry point for one of these Genta creations is steep: On eBay right now the cheapest Royal Oak is a hair under thirty thousand dollars and the Nautilus costs an eye popping sixty two thousand dollars. Pricing reflects how difficult these watches are to find.
You do get a lot of watch for your money. The Nautilus and Royal Oak work for both dressy and casual occasions. Both have classic porthole inspired Genta cases. Both have handmade in house movements and integrated steel bracelets. Most importantly, they both have incredible wrist cache, you will get past the velvet rope and have street cred at the local watch meetup.
But what if you’re on a tighter budget? As luck would have it, Genta designed plenty of other watches while working in the industry. His aesthetic can be seen from Omega to Bvlgari.
Many of these are much better value than the RO or Nautilus. They all have equivalent quality and design. While you don’t get the same bragging rights, your wrist will still sparkle.
OMEGA CONSTELLATION
The Current Omega constellation is one of the brand's most underrated watches.
Created in 1948, the Omega Constellation has gone from a flagship model to a relatively obscure offering. The original Genta version, or C-type, had a 60s Space-age design aesthetic. These came with integrated lugs, no pie-pan dial, baton indices and stick hands.
While the current version is not a copy of the Genta it does keep some of the C-Type design elements. The modern one almost feels like a Genta mash up, with the original C-type case mounted on a Royal Oak like bracket. Speaking of the bracelet, it's beautifully integrated into the case.
The watch comes in 36mm and 39mm with Omega’s co-axial movement. The co-axial is credibly reliable and is resistant to both shock and magnetic fields. You get a good look at it through the display case back.
This watch’s biggest competition is the Cartier Santos. These watches are both popular with women and cost around 6-7k. The Constellation is not as Iconic as the Santos but has more masculine energy than the Cartier. It gives an aura of sporty refinement without being overly effeminate.
IWC INGENIEUR
The IWC ingenieur is more of a tool watch, but it still has classic Genta design inspiration.
The Ingenieur SL, which came out in 1976, is considered part of the Genta trilogy alongside the RO and Nautilus. Unfortunately for IWC it was not hit, probably because of its thicker antimagnetic case which turned off the era's fashionistas.
If you can find one of the originals, snap it up because they’re becoming increasingly collectible. While I don’t like the current model, I’m a big fan of the previous version (reference 3239) which came out in the 2013.
This version does a great job paying tribute to the Genta OG while being distinctly modern. The 40mm case is the perfect size for my wrist. Available with three different color ways, I would go classic with the white version.
BVLGARI DIAGONO ALUMINIUM
You either love or hate this Bee Gees ballad of a timepiece. With the brand name carved twice around the bezel this watch is not shy about it’s italian bejeweled pedigree.
Personally I like this touch. For me it feels like something that is best pulled off with a bit of irony or old money nonchalance. The gold versions are too much, but the iconic aluminum iteration gets the porridge just right.
While the Diagono Aluminium is not a Genta design, its centerpiece is Genta’s Bulgari Bulgari bezel. Coming out in the late 90s this watch was a smash hit out of the gate. Mixing a luxury Swiss movement with the proletarian materials rubber and aluminum makes it almost dangerously iconoclastic.
I would go with the fun new GMT model. The red and blue color combination really pops and the dual time zone complication fits my transatlantic lifestyle. Second choice would be the chronograph which has a classic 3 sub dial layout. TBH I would not be unhappy with the time only version either.