Tail of the Dragon

Riding the best motorcycle roads east of the Rockies

I shiver as I throw my leg over the Ducati, in part from the North Carolina mountain chill, but mostly from the cocktail of excitement and fear surrounding the day to come. Today I’m taking on the Tail of the Dragon.

 It’s an 11-mile stretch of road with 318 curves that attracts riders from across the country. The Mountain roads getting there are no joke either. My friends and I do this every year, but like always, I question my ability to keep up without flying off.

This winding strip on mountain tarmac was the main topic of conversation over the campfire the night before. Our host and guide Damien keeps a cabin in Franklin and has done over twenty thousand miles over these roads riding his trusty BMW. In previous years it's been more of a party. This year, however, the mood is sober. Everyone knows we’re going to ride hard.

Leaving the cabin, the throaty burble of the Termignoni exhaust grows to a loud bark as I work up and down the gears. Leaning the bike into the mountain road I can’t help but notice the natural beauty of the Great Smoky Mountains. The lush green forests and babbling brooks are a stark contrast to the Miami Mad Max world I normally ride in. 

I go into a corner too fast.  It might be time to stop admiring the scenery and focus on the road. 

This point is reinforced as I get up to Deals Gap and stop to check out the Tree of Shame. It’s a Christmas Tree of pain, leafy branches supporting hanging wreckage from bikers who didn’t make it off the mountain in one piece. Since 1995, on average 1.5 people have died here every year.

I take a deep breath and set off down the Tail of the Dragon. The corners keep coming and I feel like a slalom skier constantly on edge bashing gates. My SuperSport S is up to the challenge as I destroy what’s left of its chicken strips.  

One of the most challenging aspects is the constant change in elevation. The road climbs and descends, Demanding quick reflexes and precise throttle control. My mind is focused, but every once in a while, even for a millisecond, I take in the lush scenery. 

As I near the end of the Tail of the Dragon, I feel a mix of exhaustion and exhilaration. I’ve pushed myself to the limit, and I’d like to think it's made me a better rider. Perhaps, however, it was luck and advanced traction control that kept me off the Tree of Shame.

I smile with relief at Damien, but his knowing smirk was anything but comforting. We were just getting started.

Over the next two days we explored the quieter roads where you can really haul ass. Long sweeping corners hanging on the sides of mountain cliffs test your nerves as much as your skill. Holding the lean angle and keeping the throttle on, you wonder when the corner is ever going to end. Other roads were technical, following mountain streams, part River Runs Through It and part MotoGP.

What’s the purpose of all this? It may sound counterintuitive but riding hard is incredibly relaxing. There is only room to focus on what's ahead and all the other noise in your head is silenced. The simple things become apparent, the sunshine peeking through the trees, the smell of the air, the gradient of the asphalt. For a few hours, nothing else matters.

The morning was cold, but as we arrived back at the Cabin we’re sweating under the heavy riding gear. Grabbing a swimsuit, we jumped into the creek. A cold plunge releases all the tension and adrenaline from a hard day on the road.

 This is the trip, motorcycle, swim, grill, drink. Rinse and repeat. Now it’s time to plan for next year.